Common questions.

Pricing depends on yard size, head count, and system complexity. Call for pricing or to schedule a free on-site quote.

Most residential installs take 1–2 days. We coordinate with utility locates and work efficiently to minimize disruption to your yard.

Yes. We can troubleshoot, repair, or upgrade existing systems regardless of who installed them.

We recommend booking by late September to ensure your system is winterized before the first hard freeze in mid-to-late October.

Yes. All new installs use low-voltage LED fixtures — they last longer, run cooler, use a fraction of the power, and look better than halogen.

Pricing depends on the number of fixtures, the design complexity, and the property layout. We provide free in-person consultations.

Yes. LED systems function in any temperature. We bury wiring at proper depth so freezing isn't an issue.

Earlier is better — our calendar fills by October. We start installs in early November and run through early December.

Seasonal lighting is installed in November and removed in January. Permanent lighting stays up year-round, hidden under eaves or blended into gutter lines and fascia, and is controlled by an app for any color, pattern, or holiday.

No. The only permanent system we install is Inception — a professional, permanent-mount system built for outdoor durability with full warranty support. We don't install retail/DIY brands.

Yes. After takedown, we wrap, label, and store everything at our facility so it's ready for next year's install — no clutter in your garage.

In the Chicago/Northern Illinois & Southern Wisconsin climate, every 3–5 years is typical. Our freeze-thaw cycles and road salt are hard on paver joints, so regular maintenance is the difference between pavers that last 20+ years and ones that fail in 10.

No. We focus on restoration only — cleaning, re-leveling, polymeric re-sanding, and sealing of existing brick paver surfaces. For new installs, we can refer you to a trusted local partner.

No. The sealers we use are formulated for outdoor traffic and don't reduce traction in wet conditions.

Pricing depends on square footage, condition, and which steps are needed (cleaning, re-leveling, polymeric re-sanding, sealing). We provide free on-site quotes.

Common causes are soil compaction, low spots in the existing grade, downspouts dumping water too close to the house, or clay layers below the surface that slow infiltration. The right fix depends on what's driving it — French drains, downspout extensions, surface inlets, and rain gardens each address different causes.

French drains move water underground via perforated pipe and gravel. Surface drainage moves water across the ground via swales and surface inlets. Each suits a different scenario — the right choice depends on soil type, slope, and where the water needs to discharge.

We don't regrade and we don't do foundation work. We focus on French drains, surface drainage, downspout work, catch basins, rain gardens, and rock gardens. For regrading, major earth movement, or foundation waterproofing, we'd recommend a contractor who specializes in that work.

Most drainage installations happen between mid-spring (after the ground thaws and dries) and late fall (before hard freeze). A visit right after heavy rain can actually help diagnose the problem — it's easier to see where water collects and which way it flows.

It varies by municipality. Larger grading projects, modifications to stormwater systems, or work in regulated wetlands often require permits. Smaller-scale installations like buried French drains or downspout extensions usually don't. We'll flag it before work starts if a permit applies.

Yes. If you already have a system installed, we can add a dedicated zone for the bed area with drip lines or micro-emitters. Raised beds want different watering than lawn turf — usually shorter, more frequent cycles — so the new zone runs on its own schedule.

Spring and fall are the typical install windows. Late spring after the last frost lets you plant the bed immediately. Fall installs give the soil time to settle over winter, ready for spring planting.

Four feet wide is the standard — narrow enough that the center is reachable from either side without stepping on the soil. Lengths and heights vary based on the space and what you want to grow; taller beds (24 inches and up) are easier on the back and warm earlier in spring.

We focus on the bed install and the irrigation tie-in. For planting, ongoing care, and seasonal turnover, most customers handle it themselves or work with a landscape gardener.